论时尚编辑的招聘标准

我亲耳听过至少三个时尚媒体主编说过同样的话:“招人,还是要家境好一点的。”言下之意,如今对时尚媒体采编人员的招聘,最看重的不是经验,也不是文笔,而是已经过上了靠编辑那点微薄的薪水本身无法支撑的优裕生活。这样的人,才能在这个圈子中如鱼得水。

对这样的论调,我本人的观点是“可以理解,不敢苟同”。

之所以可以理解,是因为我也曾经碰到过同样让人头痛的问题。我曾经派一个刚大学毕业的手下去采访某珠宝品牌的新品发布会。那次他们推出的是跟巴黎有关的系列。我的小编回来以后,稿子的第一句话就是无限向往地说:“人的一生,总该去一次巴黎……”我哭笑不得,耐心跟她解释:“你的读者都是有钱人,人家跟你不一样,早就去过巴黎了。这个杂志是要引领生活品位的,你就算装也得装出自己对巴黎比他们更熟悉的样子。”

又过了几天,该小编约了某董事长给我们写文章。在作者介绍里,小编极力渲染此人是国内第一批拿到飞机驾照的非专业人士,拥有数量顶级跑车,在收藏品鉴雪茄名酒名茶方面都颇有心得等等。最后,她又用非常仰慕的口吻画蛇添足:“是时尚媒体眼中完美的采访样本。”我已经不行了。

接下来我要派小编到瑞士采访两周,日程安排上特意注明有些场合是需要着正装出席的。于是我特意提醒她:“你这次可要穿得体面一点,这是代表我们杂志的品牌形象。”我心里想的是:“千万别给本主编丢脸。”

小编很重视,特地上街给自己买了两套正装,又配了鞋和手袋。回来的时候她哭丧着脸对我说:“我接下来两个星期每顿都得吃面包了。”我叹了一口气,心想,这就撑不住了。我还没告诉她这个圈子里的潜规则:参加哪个品牌的活动,为了表示对该品牌(尤其是当这个品牌是大广告客户的时候)的尊重,很多人会穿上他们家的衣服或者挎上他们家的包包。

不过这个道理小编很快就明白了。有一天我跟她一起参加某品牌的新店开幕庆典,小编很得意地说:“我今天可是用他们家的东西来武装自己的,你看出来了吗?”我把她从头到脚地打量了一番,什么也没发现。我甚至还查看了她的钥匙,因为我认为以小编的经济能力,大概只能买得起这个牌子的钥匙扣。小编笑着说:“不是啦,我喷了他们家的香水,这还是上次新品发布会上他们自己送给我的。”

说到这里,大概可以让人理解为什么家底殷实会被当作成为时尚编辑的重要条件了。可我始终怀疑,提出这个标准是因为主编们基于自恋的一厢情愿——真正买得起或用得起爱马士BIRKIN包的人,为什么会愿意来你的杂志做个又苦又累且薪水寒碜的小编呢?

我想起公关公司的朋友说的一个真实笑话:他因为工作的缘故在一个四合院里参加私人晚宴。对面坐着一个据说是有什么爵位的英国老头,左边是一位大陆名流。只有右边坐着的一个女人看上去跟他一样像个普通人,于是他出于礼貌没话找话:“最近忙吗?”没想到对方立即撇嘴:“一点都不忙,我最讨厌忙了!”

作者:曲奇
原文见21世纪经济报道,可惜原文链接挂了,于是转帖于此。

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